Opened in 1901 to house the overflowing collection of Frederick Horniman, the museum sits on high ground with superb views of the south of the city. Designed in an arts and craft style by renowned architect Charles Harrison Townsend, the building has a lofty clocktower and stunning mosaic on its front elevation.
The Horniman is actually in Forest Hill, just to the south of Dulwich – but, hey, who’s counting!
One of the best things about the Horniman is that it’s free! Access to the extensive collection of natural history and an array of historical and cultural artefacts can take up many hours of your time at zero cost, What’s not to love!
The main gallery houses the natural history collection. It’s an airy barrel roofed structure, with a surrounding balcony. Exhibits are laid out in a logical and informative way, to help show the evolutionary and behavioural traits. Expect to see taxidermy, dioramas, fossils and creatures great and small.
One of the most famous creatures at the larger end of the scale is the walrus. Or, the overstuffed walrus, as he is commonly known. Legend has it that taxidermist has never seen a real walrus and was unaware of their rolls of fat. Therefore, he simply stuffed the creature to the confines of its skin – giving an overly stuffed armchair appearance.
If there’s a problem with the Horniman, it’s that there’s too much to see. Exhibits surround you on all sides, from knee to ceiling height. The plus side to this is that you’re bound to have missed something, therefore, the next time you visit there’ll be something new to discover.
The ethnographic gallery is a riot of colour. Flags and pennants hang from the ceiling, whilst display cases have cultural dress from all parts of the globe. Here again, everything has been thematically arranged and exhibits are well labelled. Of particular interest was an exhibit of talisman / good luck charms through the ages. It’s amazing to believe some of the tin-pot theories that some people cling to, in order to help ease their worries.
In addition to the permanent display, there is an ever-changing array of temporary exhibitions – many of which charge a fee. At the time of visiting these included:
- As I Live and Breathe – dramatic installations by Claire Morgan
- Stages of Making – a collection by members of the local community
- Turn It Up: On Paraxdoxes – culturally contrasting photos by Jide Odukoya
Also on site are an aquarium and a butterfly house, both of which charge an admission fee.
The views can be best admired from the lovely gardens, which wrap around the museum. Extending to 16 acres, they featuring tree-lined walks, vast open spaces, sunken gardens and secluded nooks, these gardens make a great place to sit and relax. They are also superb for families and children.
Whilst the Horniman is out of central London, it can still get busy. It can be particularly so at weekends, as it’s a perfect place for parents to let their kids let off some steam. Therefore visiting during the week would be your best bet.
Our top tip would be to grab some food before you arrive and eat it al-fresco in the Horniman Gardens, before going inside.