One of the largest, and most popular, of the Saxon fortified churches is Biertan. In fact, it’s one of the most impressive and important medieval strongholds in the whole of Transylvania. So important, in fact, that it was awarded Unesco World Heritage status in the 1990s.
After paying the 10 Lei (£1.90 / $2.30) entrance fee – which is common to most of the fortified churches in the region – the central enclosure is reached via a covered stairway.
The church sits high above the village and being encircled by three sets of walls, was considered relatively impregnable.
The church is late gothic in design and sits stately in its setting. Inside, the multi-panelled alter piece is the true centre-piece in every sense. However, the smaller details in the church are also fascinating. Look out for details on the pews, and choir stalls, as well as the ingenious lock in the sacristy door. The wooden planked flooring is laid on sand and has a cushioned feel as you walk. Given that the buildings at Biertan have been there for 700 years it also shows that building a house on sand may not always be a bad thing!
The inner courtyard stands high above the surrounding countryside, offering a birds-eye view of the village.
The inner courtyard has numerous outbuildings and towers to explore. One of which is the Divorce Room; here quarrelling couples would be locked in a small room for six weeks, to work out their differences. Given its usage, the room has also been called the ‘marital prison’. Some would argue that the process works, as there was reputedly only one divorce in the 300 years in which it operated. What the stats fail to tell us however is how many exited alive after such close confinement!
At the base of another tower, you’ll find a number of ornate tomb covers.
A visit to Biertan is highly encouraged. Given its pedigree, it does get busier than the smaller fortified churches, but it’s definitely worth seeing. All of the Saxon fortified churches have lots to offer, our suggestion would be to visit a selection of them, both large and small, renovated and in disrepair.
