Our adventures in Romania had been superb to date and had exceeded our hopes. Therefore, it was with some trepidation that we came to Sighisoara, as our expectations were very high.
Thankfully, we needn’t have worried as Sighişoara far exceeded these expectations. The place is lovely, actually picture book lovely! Its very situation is impressive with the more modern town nestled around the base of the eminence on which the citadel is built.
The ascent, up narrow cobbled streets, is very picturesque, offering photo opportunities at every turn. The main gate to the citadel is the stunning Clock Tower – a mixture of Saxon magnificence and fairy tale castle. This leads into the splendid Piata Cetatii, a majestic cobbled square flanked on each side by atmospherically ancient buildings.
Entry to the inner citadel is made through the great stone gate arch under the Clock Tower.
From here the Strada Scolii heads up a gentle slope towards the pinnacle of the mound, the church of St. Nicholas, which surmounts the hill over the citadel. This church is reached via the Scholar’s Steps, a covered flight that ascends over 176 steps to the church, from which you can gain panoramic views across the town.
In summer, due to the heat of the day and the potential for crowds, our advice would be to visit this summit first, and then to wind your way slowly down the hill over the rest of the day. The church itself is serene, but without any particular merits other than its position. Behind the church, there is a very picturesque graveyard which slopes down through the trees.
We would also advise (for the more sure-footed) taking one of the back paths, on the way down, which will also take you off the main tourist trail. The path we chose (somewhat by chance) brought us out at The Tinsmith’s Tower – which is sadly not open to the public.
From there, a rest is probably in order, and the central Piata Cetatii is a perfect place to grab refreshments, sit at an outside table, and watch the world go by.
Once refreshed the ornate Clock Tower beckons. At 64 meters high, it’s another steep ascent, which is made up of a variety of different staircases. The view from the top, however, is well worth the climb and the 15 Lei £2.88 ($3.48) entry fee. On the way to the viewing balcony are a range of historical exhibits of differing quality. One highlight on the climb for us was to see at close hand, the back of the clock mechanism, including the figurines that display the days of the week and the weather prediction.
From atop the Clock Tower, the town of Sighisoara can be seen laid out before you. Tackling the tower early, therefore, is a great way to get your bearings on the locations, and to help ensure that you don’t miss anything out.
For us, our next step was to explore the inner citadel. This maze of streets contains picturesque buildings, the bulk of which have something interesting about them. Some buildings are truly historic, others have intriguing little details, others have a lovely palette of pastel colours, whilst a few beggar belief at how they keep standing given their decrepit nature.
Upon leaving the Clock Tower, head in the direction of Piata Cetatii, within fifty metres you’ll find, on your left-hand side a yellow corner house. This is reputed to be the birthplace of Vlad Dracul in 1431. This man certainly had a colourful place in history. A notable and important leader in Wallachain history, he is also considered as something as a hero in Romania. To outsiders, he is best known by the soubriquet of ‘Vlad the Impaler’. This due to his penchant of impaling people of spikes – circa 20,000 people are estimated to have met this ghastly end at his hands. To the modern-day public, Vlad has yet another claim to fame. It is purported that the fictional character of Count Dracula is based upon him. This has led both to a blurring of history and fantasy, and significant trade in Dracula souvenirs!
Sighisoara is a fantastic place, truly a feast for the eyes. This means that it’s also popular with tourists. If you pick your time of year, and time of day, however, then you will not meet hoards of other travellers. Our visit was in early September, and the streets were generally uncrowded. There were a few coach parties, but hitting the main attractions early or later in the day should help ensure that you can avoid the throngs. The other alternative is to seek out the smaller back streets that are more often than not ignored by the organised tours. These are also the places that will help you to get a feel for the real gem that is Sighisoara.
Sighisoara is not all about the citadel, however, there are other parts to the town that are worthy of investigation. Foremost of these is the Holy Trinity Church (Biserica Sfanta Treime), which lays just across the river. This striking black and white building with its central dome is also a must-see. Inside it is gloriously decorated, with painted walls and ceilings, and has a calm and relaxing air.
